Hello Krytac Forum!
This is my one of my first posts here so I thought it might be more special if I just decided to cram all of my ideas into one thread. What I'm hoping to accomplish with this post is to just get everyone's opinion on what I hope to be my future build and what people have found works for them. I have kind of just ghosted around the forums for maybe half a year before this but made my account a few weeks ago to talk about what I’m thinking.
I got my Mk 1 CRB from evike, near the end of june last year. It is still my second gun, intended to outmode my flat-hopped lancer tactical. Which it did. My best friend also picked up a CRB in tan at the same time I did (Mine is black). We both took our CRBs to our first airsoft game and it was just a lot of fun. However, there’s always that nagging sense that something else better is out there, but of course that will always be there. I intend to humor it this last time though (No way it could ever be the last time, theres always one more thing I could do .However I think my parts list begins to cover pretty much all the areas in which I find my krytac could be improved.
For my build I would like to create a gun with superb trigger response on a lipo, accuracy as well as precision out as far as I can get it with .28g (I would be open to a higher bb weight if you all recommend it but right now I believe the .28g to be the healthy balance of keeping my fps and achieving range, without changing my spring) I would also like to see a low fps deviance. I add this last item as I am currently under the impression that a great part of my krytacs accuracy is due to it’s already low fps deviance, and that if I can lower this even further I can be sure that my bb will make the same path every time, as they all leave the barrel at relatively the same power. One of my biggest emphases is really to just tune it. A definitive shim job, aoe and such. This build is meant for the medium to longer engagements of field play.
Finally my list.
Turnigy nano-tech 2000mah 3S 15~25C Lipo AIRSOFT Pack
Yes, I see this is 25c
Up until now I have been plinking with a 9.6 NiMh and it’s not too shabby. Of course it will be better with a Lipo though. I see this is a 25c battery and I have read up on overspin and am aware it is a problem, though it doesn’t seem to be very prevalent. All of the posts on this forum regarding overspin seem to have appeared and disappeared in a short amount of time (excluding that new post involving the Mk 2), could this problem be caused by a bad batch of mosfets? I say mosfets because I am under the impression it is their job is to hold a “reservoir” of charge and release a certain amount and this improves trigger response. If the mosfet releases too much could this result in the overspin we have been noticing? Maybe just a bad batch in general? I say batch because there are many krytacs that run like a dream with these 11.1v lipos.
How much of a risk would I be presenting myself to if I purchased this pack? I see many reviews on youtube where the gun runs perfectly with an 11.1v.
Last thing about the battery, do you think this three cell configuration would fit with two packs in the side tubes and one resting vertically against the butt pad? If yes, would it hinder stock movement in anyway?
Nylon T-Connectors 10 Pairs (20pc)
Deans don’t seem to be the best connector out there, but here’s a good deal, and they are sure a heck of a lot better than tamiya.
Retro ARMS CNC Custom Straight Trigger - Blue
*Tries desperately to think of evidence based reason* uuuuuuuh... Looks cool. Probably will make me shoot faster because.
---Accuracy, Precision, and Range---
Okay okay okay, I need to get this off my chest. I bought a madbull black python 6.03.
Please keep reading.
I think I remember there being some ill-will aimed at madbull barrels but I might be remembering wrong, but if there is I used logic in this purchase, I promise. I still have my stock barrel preserved carefully but I picked up a madbull due to the claims that it has a longer barrel window, which is supposed to be good when you R-Hop. Which is actually the entire premise that ER-Hop works on. Please do not blow me off due to this possible mistake? I can always R-Hop my krytac barrel if you think it would be better. Or leave it stock, but I think R-Hop could give me what I want. Also it’s always nice to have something to practice on. My last wish would be to screw up my stock parts.
Already purchased ten feet of mcmaster carr and am enjoying fiddling around with it. No results yet.
Ummm, so yeah... I still have my stock one!
---Low FPS Deviance (compression, consistency?)---
Lonex POM M4A1 / M16A2 / RIS / SR16 Air Nozzle
Honestly, I’m not sure about this one yet. The only thing that makes me think I might need it is that the krytac one does not come with an O-Ring. I have read what Allizard said about how an O-Ring might even decrease performance but I still have a nag telling me the compression boost could be worth it. Full disclosure, I don’t even have a chronograph yet. If you have gone after this angle before what was your desired fps deviance? What deviance is acceptable? What nozzle would you recommend if you would recommend one at all?
---Tuning and Such---
SHS 30-Piece Shim Set
I know krytacs already have some goshdarn near perfect AOE already, but anything I can do to clean it up with some washers on the piston is welcome, if it even needs it at all that is.
Just gonna candy-cane my barrel with teflon tape really, I am looking for no side to side play, but can still slide in and out, correct?
---Upgrades I have considered but turned down, and Why---
Dual Sector gear-
For this, and the next two upgrades in this section, the whole idea was to tighten up my cycle rate. My line of logic went cycle rate --> ROF --> Better semi-auto shooting, which is in the end what I want. An AEG designed to thrive at the longest ranges attainable with accuracy and precision for AEGs as a platform. The reason I specifically ruled out DSG is because it looks like it would get me almost more than I want for my build? It seems like I could get a modify brand dual sector gear for pretty cheap but I think I would be cutting too many corners with too little knowledge if I attempted this kind of build.
SHS 13:1 Gearset-
It seems like a mistake to replace a gearset that retails for $75 with one that goes for about 25. And also I think I remember something in the forums about needing to sand down material in order for aftermarket spur gears to fit.(http://krytac.forumchitchat.com/post/spur-gear-compatibility-7605436?highlight=spur+gear+fit&pid=1290500400)
I would hate hate, hate to go grinding on my krytac gearset but maybe that’s just me. And if I bought another gearset specifically for short stroking then I lose one part that makes the krytac so great in the first place.
Trigger contact/trolley modifications-
Most of these upgrades seem to be irreversible and I would like to avoid that as much as possible. Yes, I realize deans might fall under that category but it can be reversed with some time and I have a relatively unfounded hatred of Tamiyas.
---The end? Finally?---
Just to sum things up I’d first like to say that at this point nothing could hurt more than a TL;DR. Please don’t tell me to look it up myself as well, I hope that it’s evident that I have in fact done my research, and gone as far as I could. Hence the post. But if those are the only responses this post is rewarded with then so be it, but absolutely any new knowledge or insight would be so so appreciated. I will always weigh information from someone who experienced it first hand more heavily than from someone who hasn’t. If you’ve read everything this far, truly, thanks. I’d love to hear your opinion. If you just skipped to this paragraph because it was labeled “the end” I’d be grateful if you went back and read it. This is a post asking for information, but if you gained any yourself then great!
Good luck to everyone else trying to build the perfect krytac and I hope this is a helpful post for everyone!