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A_inc

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Reply with quote  #1 
Made this one up, didn't test it yet but I guess it is functional. You will need a folower, stoper and spring from the original magazine and three 2x28mm screws. Included files are 2 halves of the mag body and spring guide. If you'll manage to print and test one please write a review on it's functionality, this might help in improving the construction 1.png  2.png 

 
Attached Files
zip Mag.zip (36.87 KB, 3 views)

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Ragshnak

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Reply with quote  #2 
Nice work, hopefully someone will try this out and make a video!

EDIT: Have you made out how many BBs that's supposed to fit in it?
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A_inc

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Reply with quote  #3 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragshnak
Nice work, hopefully someone will try this out and make a video!

EDIT: Have you made out how many BBs that's supposed to fit in it?

Unfortunetely not, about 40-50 I assume
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Allizard

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Reply with quote  #4 
I met someone at Houston last weekend taking about making a shot mag with 3D printing.  Is that you?

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leechmonger

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Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Allizard
I met someone at Houston last weekend taking about making a shot mag with 3D printing.  Is that you?



That was me lol. I downloaded this one and I noticed the dimensions were not the same as my 1:1 scale. I haven't had time to thoroughly check this one though. I will print a version this week and let everyone know how it goes.
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A_inc

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Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by leechmonger


That was me lol. I downloaded this one and I noticed the dimensions were not the same as my 1:1 scale. I haven't had time to thoroughly check this one though. I will print a version this week and let everyone know how it goes.

That's awesome, can't wait to see if it works! I used metric scale while making this model, my unit was 1 milimeter
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Allizard

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by leechmonger


That was me lol. I downloaded this one and I noticed the dimensions were not the same as my 1:1 scale. I haven't had time to thoroughly check this one though. I will print a version this week and let everyone know how it goes.


Well.  very nice to meet you.
Yeah I was the one talking to you and also with the Laylax guy.  


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leechmonger

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Reply with quote  #8 
Capture.png 

Unfortunately this is the reply I got back from a rep at i.materialize. If I open the object in 3D builder it actually tells me there might be an error printing the model but it doesn't say where. Lucky the rep explains that one of the walls being to thin is the issue. Once I get home today I will try and thicken the the model and reprint aspa. Also I looked up the printing requirements and I believe as long as each wall is 0.8 mm thick there shouldn't be an issue printing. Also the printed model will have a deviation of 0.3mm +/-. So fingers crossed.

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png Capture.png (70.46 KB, 1 views)

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leechmonger

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Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Allizard


Well.  very nice to meet you.
Yeah I was the one talking to you and also with the Laylax guy.  




Nice to meet you as well. The vector was my first krytac and it was a good choice.
Now my friend wants one.
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leechmonger

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Reply with quote  #10 
I submitted the design to 3D Hubs and it passed, now I just have to wait for it to arrive in the mail, earliest arrival date is the 27th.
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A_inc

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Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by leechmonger


Unfortunately this is the reply I got back from a rep at i.materialize. If I open the object in 3D builder it actually tells me there might be an error printing the model but it doesn't say where. Lucky the rep explains that one of the walls being to thin is the issue. Once I get home today I will try and thicken the the model and reprint aspa. Also I looked up the printing requirements and I believe as long as each wall is 0.8 mm thick there shouldn't be an issue printing. Also the printed model will have a deviation of 0.3mm +/-. So fingers crossed.

Well I guess the thickness problem is caused by the fact that the model is indeed groupped, I don't remember adding walls thinner than 1.0mm. Also I think it would be more reasonable to use ABS instead of PLA since it is more durable. Speaking about using printing services, I'm not quite sure they will bother doing the slow thin valve printing and will just go with the fast rough printing that may cause severe functionality problems such as jams and exfoliation but there is still an option of smoothing the surfaces with acetone if we are speaking about ABS
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leechmonger

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Reply with quote  #12 
Sorry for my late response I was playing with the mag soon as I got off work today. Here is what I was able to find. 

1. The magazine fits perfectly in the vector mag well. I would shave off 1mm from the bottom if you want it to be flush with the bottom of the vector.
2. The two screw holes aren't enough there needs to be one closer to the top of the magazine to keep the top closed. Also the screw holes need to be a little wider to use the vector mag screws
3. The spring channel needs to be ~1mm wider to fully close the magazine with the spring inside.
4. I sanded down the two inside faces to get an even close when screwing the magazine together, otherwise there is a noticeable seem, I noticed the spring preventing the mag from closing before I decided to sand the inside faces.
5. The area that contains the spring for the BB lip needs to be wider, the spring would not fit, preventing the mag from being pressed together and and lip keeping the BBs from flying out had to much force preventing it from moving freely.
6. The curve of the spring channel is too sharp at the bottom back to allow the spring to fully function.
7. The BB follower attacked to the spring could not move freely, because of #3.
8. The pin at the top that keeps the spring in, is perfect, so is the attachment.

To remedy issue 6  would try adding a mag plate, similar to the Glock mag extended base plates to the design. this would allow more space for the spring channel to curve and not be too sharp as to prevent the spring from moving. I am sure the spring needs to be cut in order to fit in the mag properly, however I didn't cut mine to find out.


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A_inc

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Reply with quote  #13 
Quote:
Originally Posted by leechmonger
Sorry for my late response I was playing with the mag soon as I got off work today. Here is what I was able to find. 

1. The magazine fits perfectly in the vector mag well. I would shave off 1mm from the bottom if you want it to be flush with the bottom of the vector.
2. The two screw holes aren't enough there needs to be one closer to the top of the magazine to keep the top closed. Also the screw holes need to be a little wider to use the vector mag screws
3. The spring channel needs to be ~1mm wider to fully close the magazine with the spring inside.
4. I sanded down the two inside faces to get an even close when screwing the magazine together, otherwise there is a noticeable seem, I noticed the spring preventing the mag from closing before I decided to sand the inside faces.
5. The area that contains the spring for the BB lip needs to be wider, the spring would not fit, preventing the mag from being pressed together and and lip keeping the BBs from flying out had to much force preventing it from moving freely.
6. The curve of the spring channel is too sharp at the bottom back to allow the spring to fully function.
7. The BB follower attacked to the spring could not move freely, because of #3.
8. The pin at the top that keeps the spring in, is perfect, so is the attachment.

To remedy issue 6  would try adding a mag plate, similar to the Glock mag extended base plates to the design. this would allow more space for the spring channel to curve and not be too sharp as to prevent the spring from moving. I am sure the spring needs to be cut in order to fit in the mag properly, however I didn't cut mine to find out.



Hm, spring channel you mean thicker on 6mm side or thicker on 11,8mm side? Both this measurement and lower curve parameters were taken from oroginal... Perhaps this is why krytac mags tend to jam xD
I kept in mind using the surface drilling screws, I mean those that screw themselves in and make their own thread
I think it would be best for me to design my own stopper and follower and fit them to sizes of springs, I'll also solve the problem with spring seating
Base plate is a good Idea, I'll try to figure so.ething out
If possible, try to find other issues and tell if you'll manage to make it function, thanks a lot!
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leechmonger

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Reply with quote  #14 
Quote:
Originally Posted by A_inc

Hm, spring channel you mean thicker on 6mm side or thicker on 11,8mm side? Both this measurement and lower curve parameters were taken from oroginal... Perhaps this is why krytac mags tend to jam xD
I kept in mind using the surface drilling screws, I mean those that screw themselves in and make their own thread
I think it would be best for me to design my own stopper and follower and fit them to sizes of springs, I'll also solve the problem with spring seating
Base plate is a good Idea, I'll try to figure so.ething out
If possible, try to find other issues and tell if you'll manage to make it function, thanks a lot!


The last few days I have tried to find a way to actually close the mag once screwed in. I am not sure if a higher quality print will solve the issue: The inside of the mag sits on top of each other leaving a gap to see inside the magazine. If possible what would be a better printing material to resolve this. I am asking because I don't normally 3D print objects lol.
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A_inc

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Posts: 16
Reply with quote  #15 
Redesigned the model, this one should work better, now all the required parts are included, you will also need two 2 mm screws with nuts, one 5mm spring for stopper and the mid cap spring you can purchase online 1.png  2.png 

 
Attached Files
zip Magazine.zip (88.04 KB, 7 views)

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